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Maison Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, titled ‘Hard and Soft,’ marks a lighter direction under creative director Glenn Martens while keeping a focus on statement leather accessories. Highsnobiety’s firsthand re-see report highlights floral prints, an artist collaboration, and plush leather bags.
Maison Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection takes a softer turn under creative director Glenn Martens, trading the confrontational edge of his debut season for floral prints and playful detailing — while doubling down on the heavy leather accessories the house is known for. The assessment comes from a firsthand review of the collection at a private re-see, published by Highsnobiety.
The collection, titled “Hard and Soft,” was described by Highsnobiety’s reviewer as “still weird” but carrying “a lightness to the dark” compared to Martens’ first summer outing. Where his Spring/Summer 2026 show featured what the outlet called “a bit nightmare-inducing” four-stitch mouthpieces, SS27 leaned into contrast: delicate floral prints on dresses and skirts were set against a runway installation of decaying bouquets.
Standout pieces identified in the report include a T-shirt dress airbrushed by Hamburg-born artist Gerrit Jacob, featuring a swan on a cotton candy pink background, and a breastplate made from a full set of silver dishware melded together. A sculptural leather trench coat concealed grey check wool beneath a double collar, and a ’70s-style flower-power maxi dress carried woolly paneling at its open back.
Accessories drew particular praise. Highsnobiety wrote that thick brown leather bags — in plain grained and textured rib finishes — have “the inviting aura of a deflated football.” Candy-colored cords were knotted into nets around canvas bags and wound around the ankles of heeled sandals, which the outlet compared to “an adolescent friendship bracelet.” A cream canvas doctor’s bag trimmed in tan leather was also highlighted.
What the Collection Signals About Martens’ Margiela
The SS27 collection is an early indicator of how Martens, who took over as creative director last year, plans to evolve Margiela after his attention-grabbing debut. According to Highsnobiety, the “Hard and Soft” theme demonstrated “exactly why Margiela is in capable hands,” suggesting the designer can balance the house’s conceptual heritage with commercial wearability.
The timing also matters because Martens has left Diesel, where he was creative director, to focus on Margiela full-time, as the report notes. SS27 is among the first collections to reflect that undivided attention, making it a reference point for buyers and observers assessing the brand’s direction.
Accessories remain a commercial anchor for Margiela, and the report’s emphasis on the leather bags and jewelry-like cording suggests the category will stay central to the brand’s retail strategy for the season.
From SS26 Shock to SS27 Softness
Martens became Maison Margiela’s creative director last year, arriving with a reputation for experimental, deconstructed design built at Diesel. His first Spring/Summer show for the house, SS26, drew attention for its four-stitch mouthpieces — a reference to Margiela’s iconic mask motif — which Highsnobiety described as “unforgettable” but unsettling.
SS27’s “Hard and Soft” framing, per the report, represents a deliberate tonal shift rather than a departure: the collection retains unconventional material experiments, such as the dishware breastplate and high-gloss coated gingham, while introducing lighter elements like florals and candy-colored trims. The show’s decaying bouquet installation mirrored the theme on the runway itself.
“There’s a lightness to the dark. Or, as the show title put it: Hard and Soft.”
— Highsnobiety review
What the Re-See Doesn’t Tell Us
The report is based on a private re-see and reflects one publication’s editorial judgment; broader critical and commercial reception of SS27 remains to be seen. Pricing, release dates, and retail availability for the pieces described — including the Gerrit Jacob collaboration and the dishware breastplate — were not disclosed.
It is also unclear whether any of the more conceptual pieces will reach production, as runway and re-see presentations often include show-only items. How the “Hard and Soft” direction translates into the brand’s mainline and accessories retail mix is not yet known.
SS27’s Road to Retail
The Spring/Summer 2027 collection is expected to arrive at Maison Margiela stores and stockists ahead of the 2027 spring season, though confirmed dates have not been announced. Martens’ next show, expected during the Fall/Winter 2027 ready-to-wear calendar, will indicate whether the softer direction of SS27 continues or proves a one-season contrast.
Observers will also be watching whether Margiela’s accessories business — highlighted as a “perpetual standout” in the report — expands further under Martens’ full-time leadership following his exit from Diesel.
Key Questions
What is Maison Margiela’s SS27 collection called?
The collection is titled “Hard and Soft,” a theme expressed through delicate floral prints contrasted with heavy leather accessories and sculptural tailoring, according to Highsnobiety’s review.
Who is Maison Margiela’s creative director?
Glenn Martens has served as creative director since last year. He previously led Diesel and has now left that role to focus on Margiela, according to the report.
How does SS27 differ from Martens’ first Margiela collection?
His SS26 show featured four-stitch mouthpieces described as confrontational; SS27 is characterized by Highsnobiety as having “a lightness to the dark,” with florals, playful cords, and softer tailoring alongside the brand’s tough leather goods.
Which artist collaborated on the SS27 collection?
Gerrit Jacob, a Hamburg-born artist, airbrushed a T-shirt dress featuring a swan on a cotton candy pink background, one of the standout pieces identified in the review.
When will the SS27 pieces be available to buy?
Release dates and pricing have not been announced. The collection would typically reach retailers ahead of the spring 2027 season; whether all show pieces enter production is not yet confirmed.
Source: rss
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